After painting my husband’s office (see that post here!), I decided to try my hand at box molding. I had put it off for a while since it was something I had never done before, but I finally got up the courage and jumped into planning mode. I could not be happier with our this office makeover turned out.
Choosing the Molding
The first step was deciding on the type of molding. There are lots of styles to choose from, but I went with a base cap molding made of real wood. While there’s also a PVC option, I wanted something that looked professional and would last for years. I chose 11/16 in. x 1-3/8 in. Primed Finger-Jointed Base Cap Molding from Home Depot at $0.98 per linear foot—it worked perfectly.
Planning the Layout
You can choose to do an accent wall or all four walls. Since we planned to color drench the room, I added molding to every wall. To avoid visual clutter, I kept the spacing between squares and from the edges consistent at 5.5 inches, which I calculated based on the placement of outlets and curtains.
For example, one wall is 106.5 inches wide. With two large boxes and three 5.5″ gaps (between and on either side), I calculated:
- 106.5 – (3 x 5.5) = 90 inches
- 90 / 2 = 45 inches per box (width)
The wall height (from baseboard to crown molding) is 84.25 inches. Subtracting top/bottom gaps:
- 84.25 – (3 x 5.5) = 67.75 inches
- 67.75 / 3 = 22.58 inches
- Top box height: 22.58 x 2 = 45.17 inches
- Bottom box height: 22.58 inches
On the 160-inch wall, I did 3 evenly spaced boxes:
- 160 – (4 x 5.5) = 138
- 138 / 3 = 46 inches per box
Other walls had custom sizes based on space, but I aimed to keep things consistent.
Buying & Cutting the Molding
I added up the square footage and estimated over 200 feet of molding. Home Depot cut it down for me to fit in the car. If you’re doing just one wall, a miter box works fine, but for an entire room, a power miter saw is a huge time-saver (learned the hard way!).
When cutting, measure and mark on the wider side of the molding and cut at a 45° angle with the short edge facing in. I worked one wall at a time to see progress and ensure accuracy.
Installation
A laser level (I used a budget one from Amazon) was essential. Set your height, then move side to side, using stools or ladders to adjust the tripod as needed. I also double-checked with a tape measure and standard level just to be sure but I am skeptical sometimes!
To attach the molding, I used a nail gun only—no glue, so it can be removed if needed. I nailed every 5–6 inches and added extras where needed.
Filling & Sanding
Use wood filler to fill nail holes and corners (I applied it with my finger). Let it dry—most turn from pink to white—then smooth with a sanding block. One block lasted me the whole room! Be sure to vacuum and wipe down the moldings after.
Caulking
Use flexible caulk and a caulk gun. Cut the tip at an angle and apply a steady line along inside and outside edges of each box. Smooth it out with your finger or a baby wipe for a clean finish. Check your caulk’s dry time before moving on.
Painting
Since the molding was pre-primed, I skipped priming and painted directly with the same eggshell wall paint (Benjamin Moore Backwoods) using a brush. Two coats gave me a clean, seamless look.
The Result
This project took time, but the results are so worth it. The box molding added depth, warmth, and a polished finish to our freshly painted green office. Stay tuned—I’m still decorating and will share the final reveal soon!
🛠 Materials Used
- Paint color: Benjamin Moore Backwoods (eggshell)
- Molding: 11/16 in. x 1-3/8 in. Primed Finger-Jointed Base Cap Molding – you can get this cut to size to Home Depot or Lowe’s.
- Laser level: Auto-leveling laser level
- Brad Nailer Nail gun: This Craftsman Brad Nailer is perfect. It also uses the same battey pack and this Craftsman Tool Set I recommend, so you can use the same battery for all your tools.
- Brad Nails: These 2 inch nails work great for paneling and fit the Nail Gun above.
- Color Changing Wood filler: DryDex Spackling
- Sanding block
- Flexible caulk – DAP Alex Plus Caulk + caulk gun
- Miter box or miter saw: I used a miter box like this but I really wish I had gotten a true miter saw. If you are only doing a small accent wall, the miter box will do just fine.
- Tape measure, painter’s tape, and ladder/stool
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